Heading out from Nairobi, our first stop in Kenya was Tortilis Camp, which is located in a conservancy adjoining Amboseli National Park.  Amboseli is known for its large herds of elephants.  Cynthia Moss has studied the elephant families in the park for generations and many elephants in the park are followed closely by researchers.  Amboseli is also noted for the incredible views of Mount Kilimanjaro, which is on the border of Kenya and Tanzania.  However, depending on the cloud cover, you will not always be able to see the mountain.  We were lucky to get several really good views while we were there.  Tortilis Camp has some beautiful vantage points of Kilimanjaro, and due to the clear weather, we were often able to see it from the main dining area and bar.

Our next stop after Phinda was the AndBeyond Ngala Tented Camp. The Tented Camp is nearby the Ngala Safari Lodge, but is a separate entity.  To reach Ngala from Phinda, we were able to fly directly from one airstrip to another. While this is usually more costly than taking scheduled flights followed by a road transfer, it is worthwhile to ask about including it in your rate.  The time saved may be worth the cost.  Our transfer was included in our rate as we booked everything through AndBeyond.

The absolute highlight of Ngala Tented Camp was the wildlife available for viewing. The tents, the food, and the guides were fantastic-but the game viewing was just incredible.  I was blown away by the leopard and wild dog sightings.  These are animals you do not reliably see on game drives, so it was a real thrill.  We also spotted smaller animals such as jackals, which I had not had much luck viewing in the past.  In addition, we saw lions, elephants, hippos, giraffes, and many other animals.

Other things I liked about about Ngala Tented Camp:

• There were maximum 6 people per car in open topped vehicles for game drives.
• Very attentive management-they were on top of communication related to transfers and logistics.
• Conservation minded staff-one of the rangers started a non-profit aimed at stopping rhino poaching, which was fully supported  by camp management and staff.
• Before dinner, the managers and rangers gathered with guests for drinks and appetizers.  This created a nice time to socialize with other guests if you wished, but was easy to skip if you were tired and just wanted to eat dinner and go to bed.

I was so happy with my stay at Ngala Tented Camp that I am planning a return visit next summer.  Wild dogs do move their dens and territories quite frequently, so I am hoping above all that they return to Ngala's game driving concession.  ​

One stop during my trip to South Africa was the Phinda Private Game Reserve, in the KwaZulu-Natal area.  The reserve had four options for accommodations, and we chose the Vlei Lodge.  The Vlei Lodge was in fact a camp set up, not a large lodge.  The thatch roofed chalets were separated from each other by bushes and trees, which created a nice sense of privacy.  The rooms and the large bathrooms were beautiful.  The main building was at the center of the camp, just a two minute walk down a path.  The main building had a nice sitting area and shady deck looking out over the vlei (grassy area) in addition to dining tables.  Lunch and breakfast were served outside on the deck, which was lovely and warm mid-day.  

To me, the highlight of the game viewing at Phinda was the number of rhino sightings. Rhinos are hunted illegally for their horns throughout Africa, and the poachers are hard to stop in some areas.  Phinda has done an amazing job keeping the poachers at bay, largely due to their good relationship with the local community.  The reserve's land is actually leased from the local community and they have a mutually beneficial financial partnership.  People in the community alert their friends on the anti-poaching force if they see someone new or suspicious in the area. We saw rhino each day we went on game drives, and were lucky enough to spot this baby rhino at the water hole with his mother. 

Other sightings included elephants, giraffe, buffalo, hippos, a group of three cheetah brothers, and two prides of lions.  As you can see above, the one pride had several young lions that were a riot to watch.  At times, you had to drive a bit between good sightings, but overall there was a good variety of game in the reserve and the trackers did an excellent job of finding the animals.  We had at most six people per open topped vehicle, so nobody sat in the dreaded middle seat where the view is not good.  

Another note about Phinda Vlei Lodge-the food was out of this world.  A woman named Happiness was the chef, and she was an incredible cook.  Homemade bread and desserts, imaginative and varied menus, and lots of fresh fruit and produce from the area all made for memorable meals.  She was sure to make a vegetarian option for me at each meal, and they were all exceptional.

Do you want to go to Africa but don't know where to start?  It is definitely a trip that needs to be planned far in advance.  The first time, I thought it was going to be a once in a lifetime experience.  How wrong I was!  I was lucky enough to return three more times, and am excited to be planning a trip for next summer.  The animals are always the focus for me, but that does not mean there aren't other amazing experiences and activities. Culture, art, spas, and history can be a part of your trip along with the wildlife.

Accommodation
There are three main types of accommodations in the safari areas-lodges, tented camps, and mobile tented camping.  Lodges are generally larger, with the rooms in one building or a few smaller buildings.  Tented camps are permanent tents, with real floors and full ensuite bathrooms.  Sometimes, the camps have a small chalet rather than a canvas tent, but they are stand alone rather than grouped in a building.  Mobile tented camping is just how it sounds-the safari operator may set up the camp for a whole season, but it is not a permanent camp.  Each type of lodging has its advantages, and I have liked doing a mix of camps and lodges.  While some are quite luxurious and I know there are amazing experiences to be had at the mobile tented camps, that style is just not for me!

Some will be found in or adjoining national parks, some will be in private reserves.  Trip Advisor reviews and each place's website will help you determine this.  Something else to find out is what type of vehicle is used, and how many people per vehicle.  

I will highlight some of my favorite camps and lodges in upcoming posts.